Propane Oven Issues + Hanging Parts & Wheels

valeeraa
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Re: Propane Oven Issues + Hanging Parts & Wheels

Post by valeeraa » Wed Mar 27, 2019 11:53 am

Yeah I might be putting it back anyways since I might have solved the Soot issue.

I might need a little more practice on the blacks and clears because it’s harder to show the flaws on whites and lighter Colors.

Yeah I fully cured the super chrome. Found it weird how it came out dull and looked more silver. Lol. But all good, practice makes perfect! I’ll try the APP ones also and see which one works out better in my favour. Still trying to find something to hang and coat black to take the IR readings of that instead of the chrome. Just trying to find something thick and a decent enough size.

I might be hearing and/or seeing things.. But when you lay the first coat down and toss it in the oven till flow out, I was reading up understanding there’s that gap where you can pull it out and touch up the light spots where necessary? Once I do that, should I toss in the oven right away? Or wait for cool down then back in? Just wanted to see if anyone experienced it.

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duke46
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Re: Propane Oven Issues + Hanging Parts & Wheels

Post by duke46 » Thu Mar 28, 2019 9:52 am

Yes some light colors are hard to see the light spots for sure because the part is also light in color and even hard to find even using a light. It is up to your eyes and also how much light you have in your coating area. You may want to brighten that area up some?
Blacks/whites and most all other colors that are classed as one coat ones do not need a clear unless you are just wanting extra protection? When applying a clear you want to make sure you cant see the color under/threw it but that can be kind of hard to do on the lighter colors for sure.

As for as finding something you can coat flat black for taking a reading of say when doing a chrome or other bright color then what you really need is just a couple pieces of the same type metal and shoot one with chrome powder and one with the flat black and hang them side by side then take a quick reading of both and then that will help you when you are taking a reading of a chrome powder. You will then know if your IR gun is reading low or higher so then you will know when the chrome part has reached its full cure.
Just go to your hardware store and pick up a couple of blank electrical box covers and use them for testing.

Touching up light spots is something I don't have to do any longer thank goodness :D To do this then you pull the item just as it is flowing out ( a little hint of a shine ) The item will not really be that hot but most likely a couple of hundred degrees? Shoot the light areas and then put it back in the oven. This way all will flow out like normal.
If you wait till the item is real shinny and has flowed out on you then all you can do is let it cool down to at least 200 and shoot the light areas and then re shoot the whole part and that way all will melt together like it should. If you do not shoot the whole part then you will see a lot of very dry over spray and if that happens all you can do is re apply the powder to the whole item while it is still warm or you will just have to start all oven again.
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valeeraa
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Re: Propane Oven Issues + Hanging Parts & Wheels

Post by valeeraa » Sat Mar 30, 2019 9:57 am

I totally agree with you when it comes to lighter colors. Especially the clear. Still trying to find a brighter solution for my temporary booth.

When it comes to coating a sample piece, would it have to be the same thickness as some metals heat up quicker than others? Eg. Electrical panel vs rims.

I think I should be pulling the rims out at a lower temperature asides from the 250+degs.. Lol. Maybe to eliminate my orange peel or even to minimalize it, I should do 2 thin layers of powder. But trying to NOT do that and perfect it the first time. Guess it takes a lot of practice and patience.

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duke46
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Re: Propane Oven Issues + Hanging Parts & Wheels

Post by duke46 » Sat Mar 30, 2019 11:28 am

valeeraa wrote:
Sat Mar 30, 2019 9:57 am
I totally agree with you when it comes to lighter colors. Especially the clear. Still trying to find a brighter solution for my temporary booth.

When it comes to coating a sample piece, would it have to be the same thickness as some metals heat up quicker than others? Eg. Electrical panel vs rims. Thinner metal will always cure quicker but why I said buy a couple of them was for you to check your IR between chrome and flat black and once you know how much to offset is then you would be able to cure the chrome better.

I think I should be pulling the rims out at a lower temperature asides from the 250+degs.. Lol. Maybe to eliminate my orange peel or even to minimalize it, I should do 2 thin layers of powder. But trying to NOT do that and perfect it the first time. Guess it takes a lot of practice and patience. When coating items like rims then take care of the known Faraday areas first so if you are hanging them up then shoot those areas from the back side and then turn and shoot from the front towards the same areas and then do the rest of the wheel. You are applying to much powder and that is what is causing the orange peel look.
All I have said is said just for meanness so I don't have to argue with anyone!

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valeeraa
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Re: Propane Oven Issues + Hanging Parts & Wheels

Post by valeeraa » Sun Mar 31, 2019 3:30 pm

I see what you mean, you're not curing it to the time according to the sample piece.. You're using it for a deviation calculation and offset in time! I totally understand you now.

Yeah.. I need a spray pattern when it comes to rims.. And I may be putting a heavy amount of powder on it also..

One question I do have also.. I currently have the CC HS-2.0 and I do have a ground rod 8' into the ground going to my copper rod in my booth. Am I also supposed to be connecting the box's ground to the copper rod also? I've been reading on forums from PBTP and Caswell that it causes problems with second coat adhesion.. But I don't want to get shocked if I'm not doing this properly. Lol. I've seen people also taking the ground rods wire to the box ground and branching that off to the booth also. Guess I'll have to try it out myself if anything.

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duke46
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Re: Propane Oven Issues + Hanging Parts & Wheels

Post by duke46 » Mon Apr 01, 2019 11:07 am

The unit you are using is just one step above a hobby type gun and is not one that would handle Faraday areas and even their 3.0 might not be much better. The hobby guns like Eastwood has or even the Harbor Freight type. CC 1st unit was like that and I started with one from them. I then bought an Eastwood Pro that they don't have any longer and is like the EZ 50 unit and I did my first set of wheels using it. I did have a few light spots but they were not bad enough and very hard to see so I did not shoot them a second time. They were 1999 BMW wheels. I and that gun did right well on the Faraday areas but it was not as complex as some wheels spokes are. I have also used one of the Eastwood low end units and all I did with it was to shoot an Acrylic powder and used it for 2nd and even 3rd coats and it did fine. I used that gun because Acrylic powder and the other powders we use all the time do not mix at all so if you use it then you have to make really sure whatever gun you use is cleaned super well and if not you will have problems with the looks of your normal powder.

The Gema unit I have was made in the 90's and even though it has more adjustment it is still not a Faraday friendly unit. It all comes down to the operator and his ability to master the units. Hell as long as I have had it I have still never 100% mastered it as good as the coater that sold it to me did :( That is why I lay my automotive wheels down to coat the front side and then I hang them and finish.

Your 2.0 does not have the secondary air like their 3.0 does so you have no control of that air and you only have the main powder cloud that you can adjust. To shoot Faraday areas you want a good cloud of air so the powder can go where you need it to go and then if you did have control of the secondary air and even a rinse air control then they would be turned down so you would be blowing any of the powder off in those problem areas and I am betting that is part of your problem and there is no adjustment on your unit to help you any. So you have to figure a way like other have done and even to the point of heating up the parts to get what you need.

I see no reason with the grounding that you have and would be the proper way that you would ever have any problems with 2nd or even 3rd coats :? Most all the time when a coater has problems with 2nd coats it has always come down to grounding issues. Take a volt/ohm meter set on low ohms and go from your grounding wire that is connected to your rod you hang your parts on and then go over to your powder outlet ground and see what you get? You may have to add a piece of wire to do this to one of the probes. You are looking for as close to 0 or inf as you can get. That helps you test your electrical ground and your ground rod. The proper way to test grounding is to use a ground rod megger and that is what power companies and commercial electrical building contractors use for testing. Not easy to find someone that has one for sure. Most cable placing contractors have them but not all.

Some guys have also had to install another ground rod but it has to be at least 8 to 12' from the other one. Some have had to collect another ground rod to the one they have and then they can go 16' down. All of that depends on the type of soil you have and your water table in your area? That you would have to ask electrical people that might know?

Tying all your grounds together could help and also hurt? It is not normal practice. If your building ground is better than your ground rod then maybe it could help? But if your ground rod is better than the building one then it might take away from your ground. That is something you would have to test on your own. Take a piece that you have coated and make sure the ground connection is clean and try to shoot a second coat and then connect all your grounds and test again and see how it works for you.

That is about all I can tell you so enjoy the read :lol: And hope it helps?
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valeeraa
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Re: Propane Oven Issues + Hanging Parts & Wheels

Post by valeeraa » Wed Apr 03, 2019 1:09 pm

THAT WAS A GREAT READ. Lots if useful information for myself and future PC'ers.

Damn, didn't know it was JUST a step above the hobby type gun. Here I was thinking it was closer to a professional one. :lol: But oh well, one must practice in order to master it's equipment and techniques.

I wish I spent the extra money now on the 3.0 to get the secondary air to help adjust powder clouds. Maybe I will get in contact with CC and ask if I'm able to upgrade units and possibly get a fluidization chamber also.

I've also come to a conclusion in every forum I've passed by that 2nd coating issues are 99% due to grounding issues. I will definitely have to play around with the grounding to see what I can result to. I bought an ohm reader a few weeks back and still trying to figure out how to properly read/measure resistance.

(Connecting one tip to the rod -> then testing every joining connection)? Is that the right way to do it? Lol..

Possibly during the summer I will add another rod if I don't move locations to the back garage, right now I'm in the main garage which is hard not to make a mess.

I enjoy conversing with you Duke! Very informational and helpful!

valeeraa
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Re: Propane Oven Issues + Hanging Parts & Wheels

Post by valeeraa » Thu Apr 04, 2019 12:05 am

Ugh.. UPDATE!!

I found out my parts were getting 0 ground all this time.. I think that is why majority of the powder wasn't sticking fully. -__-"

I had my 8/7 stranded ground wire wrapping around my copper rod then I had a rotating wheel that can slide back and forth on it.. I found out how to test it and found out that the upper portion of the rotating wheel can connection but the bottom half of it wasn't.. There was no connection from the upper to the lower half. So I tied them together with copper wire and protected them with duct tape. Tested the lower half to the copper rod and boom! 0.3 - 0.2 OHMS! Added also 1 and 2 hooks and the same results!

I hope this solves all my problems with the light spots on my parts and helps with the powder adhesion.. :twisted:

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duke46
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Re: Propane Oven Issues + Hanging Parts & Wheels

Post by duke46 » Thu Apr 04, 2019 9:41 am

Pick up a welders ground clamp like this and you should be good to go?
https://www.harborfreight.com/300-amp-w ... 63784.html

Not sure what type of clamp you have outside on your ground rod but this is the proper type and you can get them at Home Depot and Lowe's and they may also have the welding clamp that would be located in their welding supply area?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Erico-5-8-Gr ... gLe7vD_BwE
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duke46
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Re: Propane Oven Issues + Hanging Parts & Wheels

Post by duke46 » Thu Apr 04, 2019 10:38 am

I guess your unit just came with the standard one or two pound hopper?

You can buy one of their fluidizing hoppers but you will also need a pump for it and a small as you can get pressure regulator for fluidizing. You only need a pound or two or air feeding it. Most of the regulators are way to big and very hard to adjust but I do have a link to a company that has the low ones. You can then add a small adjustable off an on valve to the bottom of the hopper for better fluidizing control. I just adjust mine for just a little bubbling and that is all that is needed. It really come in handy when shooting metallic and keeps it all mixed up like they need to be.

here is the pump
https://www.columbiacoatings.com/store/ ... -Pump.aspx
here is a small hopper and there is a video on connecting one
https://www.columbiacoatings.com/KKPMKCP.aspx

Best to call them to make sure you get all you need. They do not have a regulator on their site.

Here is the company I get my small regulators from and the 1st one on the list is as big as you need.
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Valve ... R/Ordering

They also have the small gauges but not the ones that would mount from the back side any longer and the ones they do have almost cost as much as the regulator :(
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Press ... SeriesLPG3
But with the regulator being low pressure and then have a valve on the hopper you really do not need a gage anyway.

Hope this info helps you some.
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