New Oven Build for Garage Propane Fired *PICS ADDED

phoenixcreations
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Re: New Oven Build for Garage Propane Fired *PICS ADDED

Post by phoenixcreations » Tue May 31, 2016 6:39 pm

stuck on how to wire the out with a 3 prong cord

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phoenixcreations
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Re: New Oven Build for Garage Propane Fired *PICS ADDED

Post by phoenixcreations » Tue May 31, 2016 7:12 pm

the 3 prong cord has a green wire in the middle. do i connect it to the oven metal and the other 2 to 6
and 7?

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duke46
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Re: New Oven Build for Garage Propane Fired *PICS ADDED

Post by duke46 » Tue May 31, 2016 8:41 pm

phoenixcreations wrote:Duke i got the pid in today and i wired the 120v source and the coupler already. i bought a 3 prong extention cord for the OUT. how would i wire the 3 wires to the out?
If I tell you how I would do it then ED will jump my ass so I am leaving for a trip to the US Virgin Islands as I type BEST OF LUCK TOU YOU :mrgreen:

AC does not really have a + or - but only one side is hot 120 to ground or neutral depending on your source that feeds from your service panel. Old ones then the N and the G are tied together. But newer homes will not be that way or one that has been updated to code.

Just guessing I would say your cord would have a black/white and green wires?
The black would be the hot one and the white would be the neutral and the green would go to ground in you control box you are mounting to your oven. Even if using a PVC one then the screw should make it to the sheet metal.

I hope you have a volt/ohm meter to test what I am going to tell you? If you do not have a way to find the hot side of your 120 input then things will not be easy for sure.

On page 6 in the manual and # 5.1 pin 9 will be the hot side of your 120 and using you volt meter when you go from it to a N or maybe a ground you should read 120. If not then switch your wiring between 9 and 10. (even though ac does not have a + or - it will make a difference of what is feed out of the PID that I have found out over the years)

Now according to the diagram it shows a jumper from 9 to 8 and this will feed 120 into the PID and when the PID calls for powder to go out then it will go out to your heater on pin #7 ( that is where you need to install an off/on switch single pole double throw. (SPDT} so the heater will not come on until you want it to) The one side of the switch will wire to #7 and then the other lug of the switch you will put your cords black wire headed to your heater.

The white wire on your cord would also go to pin #10. Once the PID called for it to come on and your heater or even a lamp plugged into the cord then it should light up ( I had guys do this a lot in the past)

In the drawing what Auber is showing + a fuse on the hot side is what is called a single pole double throw switch (SPDT) off/on. It cuts off the hot and the neutral side at the same time. Radio shack will have them and a fuse holder that you like and there are a few of them. Up to you to use one and can advise later if needed but some need to be soldered and that might not be something you can do or have?

I would not do any thing until you have your power to your PID and your TC connect correct. The fire it up and then depending on the temp at your place look at the readings on the PID. The bottom one will tell you what the act temp is. Next take your hand and hold the TC real tight and it should go up and reading your body temp and if it goes down then reverse the TC leads and then it should go up or just use a match to see what it does.

The up and down arrow keys are used to set you oven temp. If it is reading higher that the bottom one then hit the down arrow key till it is below and temp in you place. Now you can plug in your lamp or use your volt meter. The lamp makes it real easy to test. Now jut use the up arrow key so it is like 10 or more degrees than your place. You should hear a click and lamp should come on. Even without the use of a lamp you should here the click of the internal relay inside the PID.

The biggest problem I have helping guys would be I do not know what they can do and how much they know about just basic electricity so I tend to say more than needed and sometime they still do not understand :(

I hope you understand what I have said????
All I have said is said just for meanness so I don't have to argue with anyone!

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phoenixcreations
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Re: New Oven Build for Garage Propane Fired *PICS ADDED

Post by phoenixcreations » Tue May 31, 2016 9:35 pm

i dont have that switch you mentioned so for now i wired it without. and plugged a lamp in. set the temp to 98 and the lamp turns on and off around 95 96 so thats a good sign meaning its wired correctly?

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Re: New Oven Build for Garage Propane Fired *PICS ADDED

Post by phoenixcreations » Wed Jun 01, 2016 7:51 am

Duke my heater should be here today. to straight wire the earth ill just connect it to the blue wire right? would i splice it into the blue or connect both ends to eachother

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Re: New Oven Build for Garage Propane Fired *PICS ADDED

Post by duke46 » Wed Jun 01, 2016 8:33 am

phoenixcreations wrote:Duke my heater should be here today. to straight wire the earth ill just connect it to the blue wire right? would i splice it into the blue or connect both ends to eachother
It might be the earth to the yellow? In the diagram I see a switch that on one side is the blue wire and the other side is the yellow going to the thermocouple. You will know more once you remove the plate so you can see the switch and the wires. Take a few pictures once you get into that area. I would just like to know. I just looked at the diagram on page 17 and the parts list on 18 and I don't think the switch will be needed for this use. If so then you will go from the earth wire to the blue one and that will disable the thermocouple and the switch.

Not knowing what they use or how they wired it then all I can tell is they will splice together. If they use the slip on type connector then use a small jumper wire with the correct connector on it and plug them together that way. Some times you luck out doing stuff like that and sometimes you don't. You may have to cut them and then use a splice connector?

You may want to test out your heater before and make sure it will work out of the box and then do the splicing.

What I have not seen in the diagram on that unit is a high limit switch? Mine came with one and because it was so hot in my bay it tripped on me so I had to also straight wire it. I had made a post that this could happen and if it did then they would have to do the same. No one ever said they had any problems. But at the same time their oven might have been in a less confining space than mine. Most of the units I have helped guys with had the high limit switch in the past. Maybe they are not used on your brand?
All I have said is said just for meanness so I don't have to argue with anyone!

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Re: New Oven Build for Garage Propane Fired *PICS ADDED

Post by phoenixcreations » Wed Jun 01, 2016 6:48 pm

think the earth is the copper wire next to the yellow
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Re: New Oven Build for Garage Propane Fired *PICS ADDED

Post by phoenixcreations » Wed Jun 01, 2016 6:50 pm

Image
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Re: New Oven Build for Garage Propane Fired *PICS ADDED

Post by phoenixcreations » Wed Jun 01, 2016 6:53 pm

this is where the yellow and blue wire go

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Re: New Oven Build for Garage Propane Fired *PICS ADDED

Post by duke46 » Wed Jun 01, 2016 8:08 pm

Best guess and thanks for the pictures for sure would be to unplug where the yellow an blue wire go and just see if it would fire up with the PID calling for it to come on.

I don't think it will but is a kind of need to know thing.

Next would be to use some wire and once unplugged connect the two together and see if it will fire up then. I really think it might but can't be sure? The thermocouple may screw with it and maybe not with it not connect to the circuit board.

At this point what am I seeing as for as the earth ground or would that be the black wire that is connected in the location of the I guess TC (yellow wire) on the unit showing in the picture???

The key is for it to always stay on when you connect it to your oven, The way it comes from the factory it would cut off when the built in TC hit its limit and that is why it needs to be bypassed so the PID and its TC will control it.
All I have said is said just for meanness so I don't have to argue with anyone!

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