Confused on compressor plumbing

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pavetim
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Confused on compressor plumbing

Post by pavetim » Thu Nov 17, 2016 8:09 pm

Ok new to building a compressor. I am building a two stage gas motor compressor and am going to order a pilot valve unloader, check valve combo with throttle control. Now the pilot valve goes into the pump discharge and then to the tank inlet. What are the lines in the pictures? The one with the T fitting and you can see one below that is labeled pneumatic unloader but the tech guy said to cap the bottom one. But why and then whats the top T go too? Oh just out of curiosity they rate this pump 35cfm at 175psi, what do you think it flows at 100psi? Never seen them rate it at such a high psi before.
https://www.compressorworld.com/10-hp-i ... -pump.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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duke46
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Re: Confused on compressor plumbing

Post by duke46 » Fri Nov 18, 2016 10:37 am

I am thinking as hard as I can but some days the old brain does not want to get in gear. It might help if you can Google some info on plumbing and air compressor. I have done that before and you should find a lot of images to look at and links.

Not sure if any thing here will help or not?
https://www.google.com/search?q=images+ ... essor+pump+" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Will your gas motor be one that restarts on its own or one that you have to start and it stay running till you shut it off? I have one that was gas and now electric but the pilot unloader is a continuous run type. The gas motor was electric start but not setup to restart once it built up its pressure but left the valve on it after I changed to an electric motor.
All I have said is said just for meanness so I don't have to argue with anyone!

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pavetim
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Re: Confused on compressor plumbing

Post by pavetim » Fri Nov 18, 2016 10:54 am

Well I was told yesterday I needed a Pilot unloader valve and check valve which confused me too because the pump has intake unloaders on the heads. Well the one good thing about the pilot unloader valve, I was looking at the Conrader NLG-1 is it has a port to operate an air actuated throttle control. So when it reaches max psi it will idle to motor. But I'm really confused on what the lines on the pumps are for, and if you look at the unloader valve descriptions online it says "eliminates the need for intake unloaders". So if I have unloaders in my pump then whey do I have to spend $250 on a NLG-1? Frustrating cause that's half the price of the damn pump.

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duke46
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Re: Confused on compressor plumbing

Post by duke46 » Fri Nov 18, 2016 1:04 pm

I have an old IR one(for a spare) it also has the unloader's and all this time I just thought they were pop off ones :o

I think my continuous run valve also has a port for idle control but never used it when I had the gas motor on it.

I had bought mine from Grainger and price was not bad. It will take me a while to find the one I bought in my paper work. I think I bought it in 2011. I will check for you. I found it.
Unloader Genie 4TK14 ($63( and the check valve was 6X209 ($15)
Looks like it is for 30 cfm or lower and you made need a different one?
https://www.grainger.com/product/CDI-CO ... uery=4TK14" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
You need that type and it will mount on your tank on top of your check valve and then you can plumb it to your gas motor. The parts for that show at the bottom of the page

You do realize you are going to be making a lot of water so I hope you have a good plan on how to handle it?
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duke46
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Re: Confused on compressor plumbing

Post by duke46 » Fri Nov 18, 2016 1:36 pm

Grainger also has what you found and maybe that is where you found it also but even it is only rated at 30 cfm or less. But mine is a 1/2" and the others are 3/4" but what a hell of a price jump???
All I have said is said just for meanness so I don't have to argue with anyone!

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pavetim
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Re: Confused on compressor plumbing

Post by pavetim » Fri Nov 18, 2016 2:11 pm

For the water I will be running a car air cond condenser pre tank. then on the out lines i'll run a oil/water separator, diy dessicant filter, then "toilet paper" roll filter. Ok talked with tech support from Conrader and this is what she said I need. RCB-M pilot valve, CTB check valve, and throttle control. But no my tank only has a 1/2" NPT inlet so have to try and get off the big bung caps on the tank and run into that and just plug the 1/2 npt. She said it needs 3/4 inlet or will create back pressure. I have two huge plugged bungs on the tank, probably 1-1/2 inch just have to see if I can get those damn caps off. Ok so looks like it goes tank--check valve--pilot valve--tube up to compressor discharge. Then run copper tube from check valve up to that T-d copper line for the head unloaders. and run line from pilot valve to throttle control. Starting to make sense now (I think) lol

pavetim
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Re: Confused on compressor plumbing

Post by pavetim » Fri Nov 18, 2016 3:26 pm

Can't do the condensor idea cause that wohld take my 3/4 inlet line dowm to what 1/4? Hmmm habe to thave my air cooling strategy

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duke46
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Re: Confused on compressor plumbing

Post by duke46 » Fri Nov 18, 2016 7:10 pm

pavetim wrote:For the water I will be running a car air cond condenser pre tank. then on the out lines i'll run a oil/water separator, diy dessicant filter, then "toilet paper" roll filter. Ok talked with tech support from Conrader and this is what she said I need. RCB-M pilot valve, CTB check valve, and throttle control. But no my tank only has a 1/2" NPT inlet so have to try and get off the big bung caps on the tank and run into that and just plug the 1/2 npt. She said it needs 3/4 inlet or will create back pressure. I have two huge plugged bungs on the tank, probably 1-1/2 inch just have to see if I can get those damn caps off. Ok so looks like it goes tank--check valve--pilot valve--tube up to compressor discharge. Then run copper tube from check valve up to that T-d copper line for the head unloaders. and run line from pilot valve to throttle control. Starting to make sense now (I think) lol
Check valve in the tank and then the unloader for the compressor. If by chance you had to do anything at the unloader and the tank was full then the check valve would keep the pressure in CHECK :mrgreen: I do Hope she knows what she is talking about?? Might want to check other sources? But I am not into as big of a compressor as you are.

I use the little screw type bleeders on every thing I have and I crack them just a little and that helps bleed off excess moisture in every thing I have added to my system. If you want to see a crazy wild looking setup that an old friend designed years ago the use the search on this forum and put in Franzinator or air polisher and then duke46 for the user name. Google should find it also. A few of our guys have done it and works real well :D
All I have said is said just for meanness so I don't have to argue with anyone!

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pavetim
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Re: Confused on compressor plumbing

Post by pavetim » Sat Nov 19, 2016 10:08 pm

Ok after some thinking and planning here is what I think I am going to do. Since my compressor and motor are stand alone I am going to run 3/4 pipe from compressor to the tank. The pipe will run under groind probably 50 feet from my shed to garage. I will plumb it into the garage and into a 5 micron water separator then into the tank. From the tank I will run it with 1/2 inch line to another 5 micron water separator then to my homemade dessicant dryer and then to a motor guard m100. How does all that sound?

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duke46
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Re: Confused on compressor plumbing

Post by duke46 » Sun Nov 20, 2016 10:21 am

With you running that for from your compressor to your tank then you will for sure have cooler air and less moisture going into your tank and should help you a lot.

Once you get the pipe inside I would go above your tank and then back down and connect. At the bottom would be a good place for a manual drain or an auto 120volt one. They cost around $100 or so. I have one installed on the bottom of my main compressor and 80gal tank. You can set them any way you like. In your case I would plug it into a wall outlet that you cut off at night or one that you can cut off any time without it affecting anything else. A lot of guys to it that way. They will bleed off air for a few seconds depending on your setting and then you set them to come on how you like. To me it is money well spent. Say if you were going to be using your compressor for a long job then you could set it to come on more often.

here is some of them
https://www.grainger.com/product/INTECH ... Pid=search" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Here are some on eBay if you go down on the page.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AIR-COMPRESSOR- ... zOpg8Cbyuw" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I do have a shutoff valve before mine. I have had it stick before but a tap or two would fix it and only one time in like 7 years I did take it apart to clean and then it has worked great now for over two years.

Sounds like you are going in the right direction.
All I have said is said just for meanness so I don't have to argue with anyone!

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