New guy from wyoming

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copterdocc
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New guy from wyoming

Post by copterdocc » Thu Feb 08, 2018 8:23 pm

Hi guys
I have been following this forum for a while and have found some great information. I started out with a HF gun and found out quickly I would need something else. I have upgraded to a Redline EZ50. I have installed a 6' grounding rod and I am using a standard kitchen oven. I have a 2x3x4 wooden box to coat in. I have not put an exhaust fan on it yet because I am planning for a larger booth. I have a tank of B17 for stripping parts.
I am doing some stainless tumblers, and have had some success. There is no one else doing powder coating for about 90 miles away. Hoping to get good enough to make a little money doing something I enjoy......so far ;)
I am doing parts on my ATV starting with the rims.
I applied Prismatic Super Chrome. I think I got it on way to thick. At the end of the bake time it was a dull grey color. I did let it get up to 450 before I started the cure time. I have since read here on the forum that it would be grey if it was under cured. When I put it in the B17 it took a couple of hours to break it down. it seems that the B17 etched the aluminum. Is this possible? I tried recoating it today With Super Chrome, much lighter coat, and it still turned out dull and grey. Does anyone have any ideas?

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duke46
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Re: New guy from wyoming

Post by duke46 » Fri Feb 09, 2018 8:39 am

400 is the max cure for most any powder so why are you getting it up to 450?

Only time I have seen a chrome turn gray was because it was under cured and when the clear was applied it turn grayish on me. All chromes need a clear top coat.

For some reason chrome powders seem to take longer to strip?

What are you using to check your part temp? IR guns will not read chrome very well. If I can and I am not coating both sides of a part then I will hang the part in my oven so I can get a reading of the uncoated back side. If I can't do that then I just cure the part longer or have another part in the oven with it so I can get a reading but even then I do not get in any hurry to pull it out.

Welcome to the forum :)
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copterdocc
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Re: New guy from wyoming

Post by copterdocc » Fri Feb 09, 2018 10:44 am

Thanks Duke I appreciate the rapid response.
I have seen some other discussion on the curing of Chrome. The paperwork from Prismatic states that it can be cured at 400 but for best results to cure at 450.
I have found that peoples experience caries a lot further than words on paper, and the experience on this forum is great, so I will cure at 400.
I am using an IR gun for checking the temp. I will put in another part to check the temperature with. It does seem a little erratic checking the chromed part.
I have been a little quick to pull the part out as I felt I was over curing it. I will take some more time, monitor my temps better, and see what happens.
Thanks again

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kbonarek
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Re: New guy from wyoming

Post by kbonarek » Sun Feb 11, 2018 2:57 pm

Prismatic Super Chrome can definitely be cured at 450 but you need to be sure you have a good substrate.

Curing at that temp also pretty much eliminates the possibility of using primers underneath as that will likely over cure them and you may run into problems down the line.

That being said, if you're doing bare steel parts or good aluminum, go for it...I've done it and had no issues.

As far as stripping it goes, once it's cured it's a bear to strip. Probably due to the high aluminum content to make it so chrome like.

It's definitely one of the hardest powders to strip...burning it off works better on steel parts.

Now...curing at 400 does work as well as I've had to use OGF primer under it on some parts, so I know it works...it just takes longer to get to temp and actually turn chrome looking.

So my guess is that you're not curing long enough because it goes from a dull grey powder to a dull grey wet looking powder, then smooths out and finally starts turning chrome late in the cycle.

The IR gun is almost useless at getting a proper reading off it though.

You can hang something with a similar weight and take a reading or use a bare spot as Duke said. Otherwise it's up to experience and getting a good feeling for when something is actually up to temp or not.

With that said, there's no exact time with powders but more a window of time and you're better off erring on the longer side of that time window (especially with chromes) as most powders have a decent overbake stability built in.

Last but not least, powders are designed to go into a hot oven, yes but I've done batches where that wasn't practical and just loaded the oven up cold and had no issues with flow or peel or what not.

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copterdocc
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Re: New guy from wyoming

Post by copterdocc » Sun Feb 11, 2018 9:31 pm

Thanks kbonarek
I do have the oven up to temp when I put the piece in so I do not think that's a problem.
I am going to do what I should have done in the first place. I have a couple pieces of 1/2 inch aluminum
about 6 inches square and will experiment with them instead of the wheel(which has been stripped twice now) :?
I will coat one and use the other as a temp piece.
I may be taking it out to soon as you have suggested. It seems I get to the wet gray look about the time I think the cure time is up and pull the rim thinking that it is over cured. I never see it go through the real shiny stage.
I will make some adjustments and try again.
Thanks again. With out this forum and the good people who are willing to help others learn it would be difficult do these kind of things. :)

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duke46
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Re: New guy from wyoming

Post by duke46 » Mon Feb 12, 2018 8:33 am

I use black BQ paint so when I use my IR gun it will get a better reading.
All I have said is said just for meanness so I don't have to argue with anyone!

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