New to powder coating from louisville Kentucky.

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ZFowler12345
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Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2016 9:39 pm
My Location: Lousiville

New to powder coating from louisville Kentucky.

Post by ZFowler12345 » Wed Jan 25, 2017 4:28 pm

Id like to introduce myself, my name is Zachary im from Louisville Kentucky. A little background about me I've been obsessed with cars since a very young age, thanks to my family always being in the car business. I wanted to get into powder coating to do my own stuff and also do some others stuff from time to time.

I wanted to jump into powder coating is I own a 68 camaro and a 48 chevy truck that needs some work and I get like doing things on my own if I can. For me so far it hasn't been very much cost wise but it does add up quick.

Things I already had (main reason I made the jump)

4500 sq foot shop
5 hp compressor 2 60 gallon tanks tied together (only used for coating and blasting now, will need to upgrade but works fine for now)
Black iron pipe air lines


Things I've bought since starting

Dual voltage Eastwood gun (will need to upgrade but is nice to get my feet wet)
4x4x8 (useable inside measurments) blast cabinet (Craigslist score for $100)
Old GE double oven (Craigslist score for $30)
Powders, cups, other small supplies

So far I love it, I know how to paint and it's a lot easier prep wise. I have done a couple pieces just small things laying around the shop brackets, a wrench, etc. oven is very limiting factor will build a bigger one without a doubt. Colors ive done is extreme bonded chrome, super gloss clear, mirror black and mirror red. They do have some fish eyes not terrible but not good enough in my eyes.

On all powders my process goes (any advice is good advice to me)

Preheat oven to 450
Blast with coal slag from tractor supply
Clean part with acetone
Hot flock part for 20 mins after part reaches 450 (to burn out anything that could come out at 400 or 425)
Coat part while hot (might be applying to much powder)
Put part back in oven for 20 mins once part reaches 400
Remove part and cure.

This is the method I've gathered from reading different forums, but would greatly appreciate any advice.

Things I've coated and what I didn't like and would like to correct.

Mirror black- coated nicely, fish eye not bad thinking I applied to much powder
Mirror red- same as the black
Chrome- hot flocked coated mid coat looked amazing, thought I needed to coat more they turned dark grey then when I put in the oven turned out like a stainless steel color not so much chrome.
Super gloss clear (only applied to chrome) pulled chrome parts out after 15 mins coated with clear put back in oven for 20 mins.


Im very new to all this and would love to turn out good results but need help and guidance getting there. After looking at many forums for the past couple months (at least 3 hours a day) I decided to sign up to powder365 everyone here seems very knowledgeable and treats each other with respect.





Thanks in advance for any help/comments!

Only pictures I've taken so far

The wipers were only blasted didn't coat because oven was to small.

Brackets are mirror black

Bolt with red are the chrome and super gloss (bad lighting)

Bolts in mid of coating (first batch picture is mid coat they are the ones I think turned out good until I kept applying powder) Image

Image

Image

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Last edited by ZFowler12345 on Thu Jan 26, 2017 2:09 am, edited 1 time in total.

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duke46
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Re: New to powder coating from louisville Kentucky.

Post by duke46 » Wed Jan 25, 2017 6:43 pm

Welcome to the 365 forum.
Now you need to learn how to coat the correct way. Screw what you may be reading about coating from Eastwood. Hell they don't even do it right.

Part temp and not oven temp is what you have to go by and chrome powders have to be fully cured and then you top coat with a clear. If it is not fully cured then it will look more gray than chrome (high silver) You need an IR gun to take metal temp reading. They do not work very well with chrome powder so best to use a like metal that is just dull in color or flat black.

On the 365 store site there are downloads so get the powder coating manual and start reading, Other good info that you need to also download. Like grounding for one. I just bet you need a dedicated ground rod for your booth to hang parts on.
All I have said is said just for meanness so I don't have to argue with anyone!

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ZFowler12345
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2016 9:39 pm
My Location: Lousiville

New to powder coating from louisville Kentucky.

Post by ZFowler12345 » Wed Jan 25, 2017 7:18 pm

Thanks duke, I've been using a IR to check part temp and if I do something in the chrome I'll make sure to put something similar to the part in the oven also coated in a dull color or flat black to check the part temp accurately. Also I'm on my way to checking out the manuals now.



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WiseAssYT
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Re: New to powder coating from louisville Kentucky.

Post by WiseAssYT » Thu Jan 26, 2017 6:45 am

The prep is easier ? Lol that is HIGHlarious ! I've painted lots of things ,never have I needed a cleaner surface than for powder coat. Most things that get just painted don't get stripped to a bare substrate.


What do you have for compressed air line filters ? What's removing the moisture and oil from the air ?

Stop using acetone , it's bad on you and there are better more affordable options than spraying to waste something that costs $16+ a gallon and doesn't do jack shit to part other than degrease it.

ZFowler12345
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2016 9:39 pm
My Location: Lousiville

New to powder coating from louisville Kentucky.

Post by ZFowler12345 » Thu Jan 26, 2017 1:12 pm

Prep is easier in my eyes and faster, it's a lot quicker using a sandblaster then using a DA or hand sanding in small spaces. The brackets took me maybe 5 mins to blast. I could very well be missing steps needed during prep and is the reason why I think it's quicker/easier (open to suggestions)

I have a 3 stage filter/dryer at the end air lines are black iron pipe with 4 drops and a filter at each drop, with a filter connected to the gun. I knew my air compressor would produce a lot of moisture since it was smaller and will run more until I get a bigger one so I made sure to do what I could for the time being. So far it's working great, I haven't had any moisture in the filter at the gun.
Closest filter to the tank is 17 foot away.

What do you recommend I use if not acetone? I have over 100 gallons of acetone and will continue to buy it for paintwork I do, but if their is a better option for powder coating I'm open to suggestions.


I'm new to powder coating... less then a month in, I'm Open to any suggestions/advice. Nothing about my process is concrete and everything in my process can be changed. I signed up on powder365 to have everyone tell me what I'm doing wrong and offer some guidance


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Last edited by ZFowler12345 on Thu Jan 26, 2017 2:02 pm, edited 2 times in total.

WiseAssYT
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Re: New to powder coating from louisville Kentucky.

Post by WiseAssYT » Thu Jan 26, 2017 1:42 pm

ZFowler12345 wrote:
What do you recommend I use if not acetone? I have over 100 gallons of acetone and will continue to buy it for paintwork I do, but if their is a better option I'm open to suggestions.


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A conversion coating of some sort , iron or zinc phosphate , pickle x 20 , kleen strip prep and etch , there's more but that's a start. I realize you think this is easier because of your lack of experience in this field, but keep in mind you haven't done anything remotely difficult yet , don't get me wrong I prefer to powder coat everything but saying it's easier ,is a stretch.

Fish eyes are from dirty air or the part was still dirty. ,got an actual pic of the defect/s?

ZFowler12345
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2016 9:39 pm
My Location: Lousiville

New to powder coating from louisville Kentucky.

Post by ZFowler12345 » Thu Jan 26, 2017 2:01 pm

WiseAssYT wrote:
ZFowler12345 wrote:
What do you recommend I use if not acetone? I have over 100 gallons of acetone and will continue to buy it for paintwork I do, but if their is a better option I'm open to suggestions.


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A conversion coating of some sort , iron or zinc phosphate , pickle x 20 , kleen strip prep and etch , there's more but that's a start. I realize you think this is easier because of your lack of experience in this field, but keep in mind you haven't done anything remotely difficult yet , don't get me wrong I prefer to powder coat everything but saying it's easier ,is a stretch.

Fish eyes are from dirty air or the part was still dirty. ,got an actual pic of the defect/s?
You are right I haven't done anything difficult yet so I can't fairly compare each process. I'll hold my statement until I get some difficult projects done.

Here is a picture of the fisheyes (more of a orange peel then a fisheye, it's coated but has the dimples in it) is this a result of to much powder being applied?

Image

What is your prep process like? If you don't mind sharing.

Also thank you for the suggestions I will check out the above products.


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duke46
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Re: New to powder coating from louisville Kentucky.

Post by duke46 » Thu Jan 26, 2017 8:04 pm

With that much Acetone then I guess you need to put it to some good use???
I put some in a pressurized container and just before I get ready to coat I will spray a part down with it but not dripping wet. All it really does is if lucky is to remove maybe something that might have been because your hand touched it. I do not always use it now. Just kind of depends how much if any the part may have been toughed in any way.

Dipping a part in it would for sure clean the hell out of it. If you need to use it up then that may be something to think about?

MEK and Acetone can be bad for you adsorbed through the skin over time. Not so bad if any in a wide oven space. Using a normal spray bottle then it does not travel very far but a container that is under pressure then it may get in the air a little easier. Lots of guys use denatured Alcohol. It works the same just slower to dry just like Lacquer thinner and some use that. Metal prep is also used by some and used all the time by painters. I use a product called Metal Wash in the dry form that Eastwood has and it is mixed with water. 2-1/2 oz to a gal of warm water. I use it in a manual spray bottle and jut wet the steel/aluminum down after blasting and blowing the part off and then blowing it dry. I have used it for over 7 years. If in a hurry you can help dry any of it off in your oven maybe at 125/150 degrees and then good to coat. It will also keep flash rust away for days/weeks/months depending on where the part is keep.

One more thing coaters use is a hand held torch so they can run the flame around and over the part real quick and easy and get rid of any what we call fuzzes that just might have found its way to your part. You will see them when coating and all of a sudden you see like a small hair wiggling on the edge of the part. I have picked some of them off if they were long enough. I have also said the hell with it on some very small ones and could never tell they were ever there. They will be on the edge and lay back down under heat.

Now the hell with this and going to see if any thing is worth watching on the TUBE if lucky.

Good night all :)
All I have said is said just for meanness so I don't have to argue with anyone!

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ZFowler12345
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2016 9:39 pm
My Location: Lousiville

New to powder coating from louisville Kentucky.

Post by ZFowler12345 » Thu Jan 26, 2017 8:59 pm

Thanks for the good info duke! I see you all over the forum spreading good/helpful info! I've read people using a torch and alcohol so I'll look into those options along with others mentioned above.

I have the acetone mainly for paintwork. Cleaning guns, wiping car down, etc. cheaper option then wax & grease remover and gun cleaner (we paint about 8-10 cars a week) I used it because it's simply what I had laying around and it was 3 am when I was coating the few small parts I did.


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WiseAssYT
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Re: New to powder coating from louisville Kentucky.

Post by WiseAssYT » Thu Jan 26, 2017 10:23 pm

The parts you show have probably 7-9 mils of powder , about the thickness of 2 -3sheets of copy paper .with a proper ground doing single stage colors shouldn't be an issue with that Eastwood , from what others have shared. So you have 2-3x too much.

Do you have a way to measure your coatings thickness ? Maybe with your painting background you might .if not you should get one.

I would avoid atomizing VOC's to clean parts off , dangerous on so many levels. Fires from combustibles spread fast , scary fast.

Look up (google)water based conversion coatings for steel and aluminum.

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