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rushmtrsports
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Re: new here

Post by rushmtrsports » Fri Dec 09, 2016 3:28 pm

Job well done. Really liking the folding doors on the booth. What are you using for the fan on your booth?

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duke46
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Re: new here

Post by duke46 » Fri Dec 09, 2016 3:41 pm

I use to make the alligator clip that was made to get a direct part reading but have not made them in a while now. I used a special solder and the ends of the wire was soldered to the end of the clip and then it would read direct temp. Can not be used to operate a PID for its reading because of the mass of the part. An oven might reach 800 degrees and the part not even at 400 yet. Most guys would use it with another reader so they could see how the part was doing before they opened the door to take an IR reading to see how the whole part was heating up.

You need a normal thermocouple mounted on the wall like 12 to 18" down and about mid way and offset a couple of inches for the PID to control your oven the proper way. Might have to change it up or down to get it as close as you can. Take a lot of testing sometimes to place them correct but they need to installed and stay put if you ever expect to have your oven work correct. At least with a Watlow you should be able to even change the offset to fine tune it? I know you can on the old ones like some of us use.

I have never used a an ez zone one. But Watlow is a good name brand.
All I have said is said just for meanness so I don't have to argue with anyone!

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addictj
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Re: new here

Post by addictj » Fri Dec 09, 2016 3:57 pm

rushmtrsports wrote:Job well done. Really liking the folding doors on the booth. What are you using for the fan on your booth?
jc metal fab 24" thing is a beast! controlling it with a vfd its either 10 or 12 thousand cfm. will suck my garage door off the tracks if i dont open it enough lol
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addictj
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Re: new here

Post by addictj » Fri Dec 09, 2016 4:04 pm

duke46 wrote:I use to make the alligator clip that was made to get a direct part reading but have not made them in a while now. I used a special solder and the ends of the wire was soldered to the end of the clip and then it would read direct temp. Can not be used to operate a PID for its reading because of the mass of the part. An oven might reach 800 degrees and the part not even at 400 yet. Most guys would use it with another reader so they could see how the part was doing before they opened the door to take an IR reading to see how the whole part was heating up.

You need a normal thermocouple mounted on the wall like 12 to 18" down and about mid way and offset a couple of inches for the PID to control your oven the proper way. Might have to change it up or down to get it as close as you can. Take a lot of testing sometimes to place them correct but they need to installed and stay put if you ever expect to have your oven work correct. At least with a Watlow you should be able to even change the offset to fine tune it? I know you can on the old ones like some of us use.

I have never used a an ez zone one. But Watlow is a good name brand.
what was the problem people were having with tc flushed mounted into wall? reading to high? i can prob put a 90 or 2 on it to get it inside the oven. i have it mounted onto a conduit fitting and ran in conduit to the pid so i could swap tc easy. ill take a pic when i go home tonight of the tc in the wall

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duke46
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Re: new here

Post by duke46 » Fri Dec 09, 2016 6:58 pm

Just open a normal oven and see where the TC is located but do remember they are a lot smaller than what we use. And I am talking about a normal home oven.
All I have said is said just for meanness so I don't have to argue with anyone!

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addictj
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Re: new here

Post by addictj » Fri Dec 09, 2016 7:07 pm

Picked up some oven thermometers and tested it out. Looks like the problem is when its recessed it takes a lot longer to reach temp. But when it does reach temp it holds it right.looks like i was over shooting temps until the tc in the wall caught up. My auber does have a tc offset. The thermostat i had about half way up in the middle was hotter then everything else. Diffusers over elements should help with that?

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addictj
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Re: new here

Post by addictj » Fri Dec 09, 2016 7:58 pm

Test #2 autotuned now tc and all thermometers came up to temp together and all stayed at 400. But when i open access window and lose heat all the thermostats drop obviously but my tc in the wall maintains temp, it drops a little but nothing like all the thermostats. So when elements kick back on for a sec my pid only comes on for a min cause ot only dropped a few deg. So when pid hits 400 all the other thermometers never get back up to temp. Its either the recess is holding heat or maybe cause i have the tc mounted onto a metal plug, that i drilled a hole in and fed tc threw

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duke46
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Re: new here

Post by duke46 » Sat Dec 10, 2016 8:58 am

What length TC are you using? You need at least a 4 to 6" one. Not sure if I am understanding the use of your plug?

I think you have a fan/blower in your oven and if so you need to have it off when opening either door.

I don't think you really need heat shields with you having the elements recessed. But what we have seen with one guys oven with his recessed ones the heat was not getting out of the recess very well. He then added a slant piece of metal at the top and then his oven worked like a charm. He was able to make a couple of cuts and then make the slants. His could have been deeper than yours? New elements will bend if you think they need to be moved a little to get more heat out from under the top of your box. Just not sure how you could do it easy? Might need an extra set of hands so you do not disturb the mounts on them. Just bend the top say 6" of them to get them closer to the inside of your oven.

What most all home oven builders do not know is ovens have to breath. If you look at a normal oven gas or electric and check the door you will see it does not seal at the bottom but only the top and the sides. They also vent out the top. You will find that they exhaust from the center and then under the right rear burner or at the back and the heat comes out a slot on the control panel. Most guys will just install a 2" piece of pipe through the top of their oven near the rear. I see you have a little gap at the bottom of your door where I guess you ran out of seal. You really need a little more gap. These are thing you can adjust when you think you need them.

When I can watch a guy build his oven then I try to catch things early so they can correct them. But once they are completed then some things are not easy to correct.
All I have said is said just for meanness so I don't have to argue with anyone!

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addictj
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Re: new here

Post by addictj » Sat Dec 10, 2016 11:24 am

Appreciate the info. I could figure out a way to redo do the top of boxes for the elements. But i dont think im having any trouble with heat up. I her ro 400 in 10 mins empty. Only issue i need to fix is moving my tc. My ocd will probably make me redo the element boxes now lol i did read a lot of info while building it but there is so much info and different answers out there. Other then my tc i have been really happy with the oven. Changing things fine tuning etc is part of the game. For me building all of it was haf the fun. Would love to do another one lol

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addictj
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Re: new here

Post by addictj » Tue Dec 27, 2016 10:50 am

changed the top of the boxes and added some heat shields. still debating if im going to add some holes to the shields. cant see from the pics but moved my tc out to
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